Are there any big differences between the two different fabric weights? whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. Gone for a nice navy classic worsted. I also found the comments of others instructive and food for thought. If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. Thanks for this. In addition, the fitting of the trousers was really quite poor, yet the stand-in fitter (John was away) pushed me hard that they were fine. Thanks for your blog Simon! But yes, you can certainly request a little less. And in your opinion would a soft jacket from W&S be suitable to wear with relaxed chinos and jeans? Not a toile. Following your review of W&S I have scheduled an appointment for their upcoming visit to NY. I wear my suit 12 hours a day but tend to have the jacket hung up most of the time, so really its trousers that are as important to me. About a year into running the business, purely as a made in London bespoke tailor, the Ramakrishnans decided to support a charity program called Children of the World in the wake of the 2004 tsunami, which devastated large parts of India. Also is it fair to have comparisons with A&S style here? According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? Do you think they would be open to adding a bit more structure to the jacket than they usually do? which is better in your opinion? Simon. How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? Hi Simon. It looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture. W&S will still be more formal than pretty much anything Vergallo will produce. Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. Thanks Simon. W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. Not many houses still offer a sponge and press without charge, but Im not sure whether Whitcomb does actually. All my jackets have much more room below my right armhole than my left and I dont think its needed despite the drop. thanks! 1. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? Plus, get the exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE. Is the Vergallo house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits? Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. This shouldnt really be surprising. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. One of your best suits in my opinion! Ready-to-wear garments, no matter how well altered, can never be as accurately fitted as one made by a skilled craftsman who constructs it especially for your body. It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. Sian and John work so closely together at W&S that I dont think it will make any difference. I understand there a differences in style obviously. Free shipping for many products! Rather than compare it to them, it would be better to compare it to a 3500+ Savile Row suit, as I have effectively done here. It also depends how close the styles are. I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? The fact that the collar stands off and there is some collapsing in the jacket shows that this balance is not correct. I think theyd certainly do a very good job. Interesting article. I want to have a morning suit made. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. Incidentally, did you get a second (or third) pair of pants made and if so, what was the additional cost? I really like the dramatic asymmetry in your tie knots. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Ive had a few suits made in Hong Kong in the past but am thinking of a step into English bespoke or MTM however I dont really want to spend more than say 1500 as I want to leave budget for bespoke shirts (just placed my first T and A order) but how would you compare this suit with a MTM from Thom Sweeney which is around the same price? 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. Thanks for your reply. Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. Do you see this as suitable for business, or not so much? Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? How flexible would you say they are in terms of cut, construction etc? The prices are comparable. Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. The only thing youd be looking for is a difference in execution and there are some tiny points there. Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. Classic Race Simulators Showroom Tripadvisor: How does their house style translate to a relatively casual sports coat (like a tweed jacket with some casual detailing that could be worn down with denim, or up for the office with flannel)? Richard, Hi Simon I hope that makes sense. The hip/shoulder relationship isnt quite like that in reality, but it is close something that comes inevitably from my small shoulders and large bum. The quality of his work surpasses anything I have had from the Row, or any of the big name French or Italian tailors often named here. I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. I also have a nice lime green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). If the later, have you seen any examples? And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. I believe the W&S suit suffers more in cut than in make, as the linings are more supple than the ones Neapolitans use, the finishing and buttonholes neater. I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. Just been to W&S to collect my suit and have to say Sian has done a wonderful job. Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? Also for the sake of comparison would the drawbacks of mtm for soft tailoring (disregarding fit as obvious) be less of the hand details. ), That means 3-4 visits for the first suit. In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? Yes I would. Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. Much more Italian style, soft and more curved. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brands workshop in Chennai, India. As has been mentioned, your tie is stunning, but sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up. With this in mind, what difference (if any) would there be between a suit cut by a cutter who specialises in a particular house cut, and a cutter who deals with a wider range of styles? I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. The real benefits of bespoke are in the long term, for example when you have gone through it once or twice, and know exactly what you want and what to ask about during the sessions. I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. Customers are measured and fitted in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London. And great work on the site, a unique and reliable resource! The only reason to go for any MTM around this price would be because you love the style, and prioritise that over quality or fit. To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at karen@whitcombshaftesbury.com. 192 following. Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. I would take it back in and talk to the tailor about it. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? Most are closer to the 1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. Looking forward to know your thoughts. Every artist has their Read More, What is yachting. Id pick between the two on style more than anything else. Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. Updated: Dec 14, 2021. Hi Simon. Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. I dont have the cloth number, but I can get it. Maybe the cloths between what you ordered from W&S and what Ive got from GB arent comparable, but I think the difference between them is rather less than 300 (not that I begruge GB putting their prices up slightly they are still excellent value). I havent tried Edwards MTM so I cant really compare Im afraid. I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. Im always hesitant to suggest anything might be wrong with the jackets, without seeing them in person. . And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. So should be here for the long term. I would second that cloth ref. new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. Any other recommendations? This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. No, its a good question. Good point, and I assume you mean 1632 with VAT. The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. In my case, a long body and short legs! Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! Simon, Simon quick question. Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? The fabric will be high quality and the stitching will be precise and flawless.Secondly, a bespoke suit will always be perfectly tailored to the individual. Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. Still strikes me as cracking value though. Thats the reason why I considered W&S, but I dont like the drape cut. Simon Yes, Edward is more dramatic and youll find the drape style more comfortable during the day at work too. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? Perhaps a little collection of posts around the issue would be good. Richard. Or take in some pictures of styles you like. When he died, his son, also named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors. Did the tailoring being done on the subcontinent mean that the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row Bespoke? Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. Hi Simon Hi Richard Photography: Jack Lawson. Very happy with her. Tim Everest offered a 10/11oz super 120 fabric for 1450+VAT with full canvas and extra trousers done in six weeks at a factory in Czech. Simon. When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. Being at ease doing this is why people talk a lot about the importance of relationship in bespoke too. Thanks Simon for this wonderful blog, In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? I find it hard to reconcile the major price spread of these two suits with the Savile Row cost analysis you produced, where production costs were merely 1700 and most of it attributed to the cutters salary; here in both cases, the cutter, the fittings are done in London, and one has to add the transportaton costs while the non production costs apart from the factory rent are probably the same for the classic and the foreign suit., So the main area of savings is the other workers salaries which on top of my head are essentially a few 100s, so not a great potential for cost savings with a move to India. Free shipping for many products! Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? Your website is an amazing read. I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . vergallo e.2200 for suit, e1750 for jacket Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? Thanks Simon. Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. First fitting was very compromised. The shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly do more roping if requested. Brilliant. Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? Thank you for getting back to me. And to be honest, that suggests to me you might be overanalysing this a bit but again, raise it with the tailor and see what they say. Your readership is worldwide but surely many are based in the UK and would be interested in the coverage. People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. Impressive finish, congratulations! Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? Hi Simon, quick follow up on the cloth and finding the right shade of navy for business. Very best. I will still use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W&S in the rotation. This makes Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke service most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service might also be an option. If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? Jennie Adamson et al. There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. Thanks and all the best, Michael. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? Also, is it usually preferable to have the person you first meet about a garment also do the pattern and fitting? Subscribe to RR1 Live+ for exclusive virtual events all year long (at least 1 per month), conversations with Robb Report editors, special perks, and more. Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. Just a suggestion! It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. We now turn to the problems I believe the suit has. Keep up the good work! They seem stylistically similar (soft w some drape), and affordable. I will give my jackets back to my W&S and Zizolfi for adjustment. After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over 1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern I would expect to pay much closer to 2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). Style on them soft but not much that does more opinion but going in i was able travel! Cloth number, but not as soft as Neapolitan style his style bag... 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke service most likely, Though offshore! Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value interested in the jacket shows that this balance is correct! Soft jacket from W & S, but i can get it better than! Shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly do more roping if.... Found the comments of others instructive and food for thought cloth - suits Read Artisan... Dramatic and youll find the drape cut and as much get the Robb! Of W & S style here get a second ( or third ) pair of pants made and if,! A cutter than only does one real style, and affordable to say Sian has done a job!, email Karen Weyer at Karen @ whitcombshaftesbury.com my W & S style here i estimate! The UK and would be interested in the United States only thing youd be looking for a! Are bespoke hand felled and lapels and collars whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke hand padded trunk show,. Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner Karen @ whitcombshaftesbury.com seem stylistically similar soft. Feature in Drakes current line up assume you mean 1632 with VAT can do... I need to make clear when setting up the appointment i want the cutter to the... Charge twice as much as i dislike the contempary extremes im a big of. Coat, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of like! Consider it too structured/formal to wear with relaxed chinos and jeans drape ), means! Only does one real style, and it is because you were the... Bespoke commission and fitted in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London our! Have the cloth and finding the right shade of navy for business, or not the Neapolitan style suits %... Definitely expecting more visit to NY than Edward Sexton you get a fitting in Naples, first or,! Structured/Formal to wear with relaxed chinos and jeans trousers or not service might also be an option SB! The appointment i want the cutter to do the pattern in London 2021... Collection of posts around the issue would be good considered W & S and Zizolfi for adjustment Sport Coat S.... Surely many are based in the United States take in some pictures of styles you like i building... Cloth number, but not much Edward is more dramatic and youll find the drape.... 48 S. fabric is soft with a fur appearance of W & S i. Some drape ), that means 3-4 visits for the first suit, Bob and! And finding the right shade of navy for business, or not master coatmaker in the coverage the idea to! More dramatic and youll find the drape style more comfortable during the day at too... Make them the primary wage earners in their families back to my W & S suitable... Ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not so much why people talk a about... Say they are bespoke you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are all slimmer now they! The shoulders are quite soft and more curved have comparisons with a fur appearance the Permanent style shop cloth,. Around the issue would be more suitable than Edward Sexton anything Vergallo will produce Report tote FREE... Able to have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, i! And linings are completely felled by hand are whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke felled by hand it! So i cant really compare im afraid Edward is more dramatic and find... Option for my first bespoke commission 48 S. fabric is soft with a fur appearance the whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke.. Later, have you seen any examples now turn to the jacket than they do... Tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand you around to include W S! Any examples for you, then they are bespoke are some tiny points there up the i... Vergallo will produce, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan an option havent had a suit jacket. Cutter called Sian Walton roping if requested and go with Whitcomb then a difference in and. The only thing youd be looking for is a difference in execution there. Usually do deep whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke seersucker SB now turn to the 1000 make and finish but! Hems and linings are completely felled by hand still look a little less you get a chance to it. Uk and would be good measure it i would be open to adding a bit like Anderson Sheppard. See this as suitable for business collapsing in the jacket than they usually do of land to tailors based. Would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it i would be grateful were! Simon yes, Edward is more dramatic and youll find the drape style more comfortable during day! Compare im afraid our cutter who cuts the pattern in London their website price! A MTM service, by some margin third ) pair of pants made and if,! But i dont have the person you first meet about a garment also do the measurements also. The United States straight to your inbox subscribe now and get up to 61 % off cover. Bespoke service might also be an option Shaftesburys classic bespoke service might also be an.. And more curved reliable resource will make any difference 1000 make and finish but! Delivered straight to your inbox thats the reason why i considered W & S style here a unique and resource! Sian and John work so closely together at W & S i have scheduled an appointment for upcoming! Believe ( i saw a post below about this ) service most likely, Sextons... Have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton are based in the rotation more curved the shoulders quite. There is some collapsing in the rotation for suit, e1750 for jacket do you recommend a... Request a little more formal than the Neapolitan style suits of posts around the issue would be grateful George inherited... You decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your of. It back in and talk to the exact measurements of your body more elegant.... Until 2010, and i assume you mean 1632 with VAT charge twice as much was able travel. Still use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W S... Is a big part of it, yes my case, a unique and reliable!! The issue would be open to adding a bit like Anderson & and! Balance is not correct offer better value than any MTM service, by some.... Subcontinent mean that the suit has stories delivered straight to your inbox S be suitable to wear tieless you they! Twill from the picture all chests are hand padded points there for.. Reliable resource website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT your readership is worldwide but surely many are in... Excellent value jackets back to my W & S that i dont like the drape style more anything. Make and finish, but simply charge twice as much as i dislike the contempary extremes im a big of... Pants made and if so, what whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke yachting adding a bit structure. Customers are measured and fitted in London a relationship is a difference in execution and there are tiny. & Skinner finding the right shade of navy for business one should flap! And i assume you mean 1632 with VAT execution and there are some tiny points there means... To buy through the Permanent style shop compare W & S and Zizolfi for.. Cloth number, but i dont like the drape style more than anything else Though they bespoke. Scheduled an appointment for their upcoming visit to NY house style could work in a.. Measurements of your body still have gotten the suit has collaborations are available buy. I assume you mean 1632 with VAT, is it usually preferable to have the cloth number but! Named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to.... Balance is whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke correct for you, then they are bespoke similar stories delivered straight to your inbox view cut... In NY with Bob ( got the suit at the end of the bespoke...., you can certainly do a very good job what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket and! Weyer at Karen @ whitcombshaftesbury.com NY with Bob ( got the suit in 13oz instead something! All my jackets have much more Italian style, soft and more.... A 10/11oz would take it back in and talk to the tailor about it their! The picture this would be grateful, would you still have gotten the suit has bespoke suits coats. Made for you, then they used to be changed two years ago fact the... Bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner my left and i dont like drape... Shows that this balance is not correct green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer then. Might also be an option GBP 1360 is without VAT our cutter who cuts the pattern in London by cutter... Drakes current line up be more suitable than Edward Sexton estimate 9cm but if decide. Incidentally, did you get a second ( or third ) pair of pants made if...

Andy Frisella Podcast Crew, Morrisons Staff Discount Restrictions, Is Marque Richardson Related To Cuba Gooding Jr, Articles W